Many consumers aren’t aware that conventional shampoos could be damaging their hair and health. These products contain ingredients that can damage the hair over time or cause skin irritation and other problems. Many consumers aren’t aware that switching to a natural shampoo, either commercial or homemade, could make their hair feel better, grow more healthily and stay stronger. Not all shampoos labeled “natural” are the same, however. Learning what goes into shampoo can help consumers make smart, healthy choices about what they put on their hair.
Conventional Ingredients
Conventional shampoo includes several different types of ingredient, each designed for a specific purpose. These include:
- Surfactants/detergents
- Lather improvers
- Detanglers
- Biocides
- Thickeners, colorants and perfumes
Many ordinary shampoos rely on harsh detergents for their cleaning power. These include sodium lauryl sulfate, which can dry out the hair follicle and make it more brittle. This ingredient may also be listed as SLS, sodium coco-sulfate or cocamide DEA, so consumers seeking a gentler alternative should read very carefully. Milder detergents include ammonium lauryl sulfate and ammonium laureth sulfate, often used in premium hair care products. These can still cause scalp reactions in some very sensitive people. Most natural shampoo products rely on soap-based cleansers, instead.
Other problematic ingredients include silicone-based materials, often called “cones.” Dimethicone is one of the most common, but any ingredient with the “cone” suffix performs the same function: coating the hair and making it slippery and easier to detangle. This doesn’t cause problems on relatively short hair that is cut often, but on longer hair, the silicone material coats the shaft, sealing moisture out and encouraging the follicle to dry out.
Biocides in your shampoo discourage bacteria, mold and other microbes from growing in the product, increasing its shelf life. They can be dangerous, however. For instance, methlisothiazolinone or MIT is used in very low amounts in shampoos, but has been shown to damage growing neurons in tissue cultures. Some people are allergic to these biocides, usually developing dermatitis on affected areas.
Diethanolamine, also called DEA, is another potentially dangerous shampoo ingredient. This substance and its relatives are responsible for improving shampoo texture and lather, but is considered a potential skin irritant. Some animal studies also suggest that DEA could be a carcinogen.
Natural Shampoo Ingredients
The ingredients in natural hair care products perform roughly the same functions as the ones in conventional shampoo, but are ideally derived from natural sources. These include soap-based cleansers instead of detergents, few to no detanglers, and no use of dangerous biocides or texture improvers. Scents and colors usually come from natural sources, such as plant extracts and essential oils. Many natural shampoos also include plant extracts and oils to improve hair color or texture without manmade chemicals. Common brands include Avalon Organics, JASON, Aubrey Organics and Tom’s of Maine.
Reading Labels
No one should ever purchase a product simply because it has been labeled “natural,” especially in the US and other countries that don’t regulate use of this word. Companies can call any shampoo natural, without even changing the formula from their mainstream products. So-called natural products may contain conventional ingredients with slight name changes to make consumers believe they’re not manmade. One of the most common name changes involves referring to SLS made with coconut oil using the “coco” prefix. This implies that the chemical detergent is more natural than it really is. Mainstream natural shampoo may also contain silicones, preservatives and other undesirable ingredients. The “organic” label is slightly more meaningful, since it comes under more government regulation, but consumers should still read labels on all products before they buy.
Effectiveness
Not all natural and organic shampoos work the same way that conventional products do. Consumers who use them just as they would an ordinary shampoo may find that their hair is duller or oilier, especially right after the switch. Since natural products tend to contain soap instead of detergent, they may not clean as well in hard water. A different shampoo or a mineral-removing shower filter can clear up dulling deposits on hair. Many shampoos with natural ingredients are also less powerful. They are less likely to leave hair squeaky clean, and also less likely to pull all the oil out of the hair and scalp. This produces healthier hair in the long run, but many people will have to go through an adjustment period so that their scalps can start producing less oil. This period may cause greasiness or hair with reduced body.
Homemade Natural Shampoo
Consumers with serious allergies and skin sensitivities, as well as those who want to tightly control what goes on their hair, may consider using a natural shampoo recipe to produce their own hair products. Shampoo recipes can range from the very simple: a tablespoon of baking soda mixed into water to remove oil from the scalp, or egg yolks to bind grease and condition the hair, rinsed away with cold water. They can also be more complicated, such as castille soap mixed with jojoba and essential oils and glycerine. These recipes do work, but it can take some effort to find the correct one for individual hair types.
Natural shampoo is an excellent alternative to harsh conventional shampoos for many people. A little homework and some experimentation can help people who find that normal shampoo dries their hair or causes uncomfortable reactions find a shampoo that works better for their specific hair needs. However, consumers must be willing to do their own research or even make their own products at home. Many so-called “natural” products are really just conventional shampoos in disguise.